THE ADVENTURES OF THE JAC ATTACK!

A Blog about a clever boy and a mom determined to out-smart him.

Saturday, October 29, 2011

On a Sunday Morning

The house is chilly and our generator is purring.  I will be honest.  I love my generator and I'm not sure I would survive here without it.  Our massive house is constructed from brick and mortar.  The walls are covered in white plaster and there is not a stitch of insulation.  Fall is slowly bringing cooler temperatures and we are already sleeping with extra blankets.

I made eggs this morning for breakfast.  I was craving something warm.  Yesterday I went on a nine mile trail run, up a mountain and to a monastery.  We had fun but I was not in good enough shape for such an ambitious run.  I spent the rest of the day dizzy and this morning I am really sore. 

I am practically a vegetarian here.  All of meat is shipped in from Australia and tastes of freezer burn.  I just can't find it appetizing.  As a result I'm constantly a bit dizzy from a mild case of anemia.  Hopefully the eggs will help a bit.

We have been on two great family adventures this weekend and I need to write about them.  Yesterday I took Roxy to the American Club for a long walk.  I tried to walk to walk her in our neighborhood but after a close call with a feral street dog I started keeping her home.  The American Club has a short walking trail and as we walked I realized we were being followed.  A mongoose followed us, very interested in Roxy.  This creature is very social and loves small dogs.  It kept trying to engage Roxy in play but she was terrified.  The mongoose walked right beside us for almost a mile.  You can never tell what an animal is thinking but this mongoose seemed almost palpably lonely and seeking a companion.  This is just an ordinary walk in a wild place on an ordinary Saturday with a lonely mongoose. 

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Shopping for Illegal Fireworks in Kathmandu


We parked in a lot where a small child dug in the sand with a scrap of metal while supervising a toddler sized sibling.  Ramesh locked the car twice and we moved purposely towards our mission.

When I stepped in the car this morning I told Ramesh, “Today I’ll find some trouble.”  He looked at me dubiously and prodded for further explanation.  Ramesh is slight and thoughtful.  When we walk through the streets together there is a constant chatter surrounding us.  I asked Ramesh what onlookers say.  He smiled proudly and replied, “They think I am your personal body guard and you are very important.”  I had to laugh.  I tower over Ramesh by two inches and certainly outweigh him by several pounds.  Still, I have to admit he walks with a certain undeniable swagger. 

Today we are looking for fireworks used to traditionally celebrate Tihar.  Ramesh leads me over a foot bridge and through a maze of vendors who sell every possible object on blue slices of tarps lining the road.  One vendor sells socks, another plastic sandals, and another fake bullet proof vests. Our route winds behind buildings and an old hospital.  We walk through alleys and every step becomes more congested with people.

I follow Ramesh to a market hidden in between buildings and we walk into a crush of Tihar shoppers.  I  try to follow closely behind Ramesh because this markets seems infinitely more foreign than my own neighborhood.  It is a labyrinth of closet sized shops lining avenues no wider than two men standing shoulder to shoulder.  I cannot move.  The swarm of people hums around me but I am stuck in place by the crowd.  I instantly realize why people die in acts of mass hysteria.  Ramesh is moving quickly away and I put my forearm out to shove past people.  I learn this is not walking but some determined fight past the masses. 
While we push, Ramesh asks shop owners about fireworks.  They glance at us reluctantly.  Some refuse to speak only giving us a nod, “no.”  Finally we receive some information.  The police have made fireworks illegal this year.  It is a money making scheme. They seize fireworks claiming to promote public safety and resell them instead.  The shops on this road have been raided only a few minutes earlier.

We won’t be deterred.  Finally we find a young man with slick hair who claims to have only one box left.  Ramesh haggles but with me standing near his shoulder the man will not bargain.  We pay too much and the man slides them under a table rapped in a black plastic back.   We place them deep in our pockets and rush to the car.

We have been successful and we feel like the kings of Kathmandu as we drive out of the lot.  A dollar sized box with twelve candy shaped fireworks is our prized booty.   And we have the unmistakably free feeling shared by all who seek a little trouble.  

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Tihar - Dog Festival

Today marks the beginning of Tihar, the Nepali festival of lights.  The festival lasts several days and each day is dedicated to an animal or object.  We celebrated the dog festival this morning.  Hari, our gardener made the traditional garland of marigolds placed it around Roxy's neck and put a mark of bright color on her forehead.  The mark symbolizes the pooja which is a blessing for the animal.

Nepal has a near endless supply of street dogs.  I marvel  as they slump sleepily in the middle of the street for a late afternoon nap. Typically these dogs are considered a nuisance but today is their special day.  As we drove through Kathmandu every dog trotted along wearing a garland.  While their posture usually typifies the saying, "hang dog" today the dogs of Kathmandu seemed to trot along with more pep in their step.  My driver told me, "Today is the day of dogs.  Today we will get them good food. Tomorrow we will throw rocks at them again."


Thursday, October 20, 2011

Friday Adventure

I felt caged in my own house, behind my gigantic security walls.  Outside the never ending din of car horns and traffic penetrated the walls.  There is no quiet place in Kathmandu.  The city that is historically remembered as a slow laid back hippy haven in now a busy metropolis.

Our driver must have sensed my restlessness.  This morning I locked JAC into his carseat,  packed a day bag and told the driver,  "Take me someplace interesting - your choice."  We filled the gas tank, slowly weaved through traffic and an hour later we were in quiet bliss.  The driver wanted me to see the rice harvest and he said he took me to the most peaceful place he knew.

We bumped down a rotted old dirt road and the city dissolved behind us taking the noise with it.  Quiet fields of deep green and bright yellow replaced it.  We parked the car and started walking.  We walked into the countryside and on a road that quickly became a narrow trail.  On each side of us the fields were spotted with families harvesting rice.  Some members cut the rice garnering short sickles in a sweeping motion.  Others gathered the rice in tight bundles while a small grouping beat the long green shafts.  Small yellow pods of rice were collected in large piles to be dried and then ground.  The remaining roughage was fed to the goats and cows.

As we marched along taking it in we met clusters of women carrying heavy loads of rice home.  They would laugh and gently tease our driver from walking with a white baby.  Every person wanted to touch my fair child.  Every person seemed content with the work of the day. 

The workers are from the Newari people.  They have been harvesting rice in Nepal for generations and have almost a proprietary feeling about the task.  They preform the work with pride.  While people rush through life in Kathmandu only a few kilometers away these proud people quietly accomplish their work.




On a Walk

Today JAC and I took Roxy on a walk.  We only walked 3 kilometers but  there was plenty to see.  Truthfully walking the dog here is a largely unpleasant experience.  We are constantly followed by stray dogs who are occasionally aggressive.  I must be always mindful of both JAC and the dog because traffic speeds by.  I am beginning to believe drivers purposefully swerve to scare the goofy white woman walking a dog.  I have also realized that in Nepal it is a priority to protect your vehicle not pedestrians.  Vehicle laws here are particular.  If you hit a human it is almost better to mortally wound them.  There is a flat fee for killing a person.  If a person is wounded the driver is responsible for hospital fees for life plus lost wages.  Also there is a 100% conviction rate for hitting cows.  If you run over a chicken you must pay for the bird plus any possible offspring the bird will no longer be producing.

One of the interesting things about Nepal is how people practice faith.  Most people are some version of Hindu and Buddhist.  Every neighborhood has its own shrine to a deity and often several deities with share a shrine. 



 
Most Nepalis I know are very pious and stop by the neighborhood shrine daily to say a quick prayer.  Religion is largely a family event with older family members playing a key role.

This is one of my favorite shrines.  It is called the People's Tree.  I have seen several similar shrines in Kathmandu.  They are actually built into the tree and the tree grows around it.  This is the tree where I meet my Sat. morning running group.  I sit across the street while I wait and observe the many visitors to the tree.  Older siblings bring younger siblings.  Young men jump off of their motorcycles and make a quick visit to the tree.  It truly seems to be part of the community.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

The View from Here

We enjoy living in Kathmandu for many reasons.  Here are a few.  The dollar goes a long ways.  The exchange rate is 78 rupees to one dollar.  We can typically eat a nice dinner out for no more than 700 rupees.

The weather is lovely 10 months a year.  JAC and I spent the morning at the pool.  The pool will not close until December and reopens in March.  JAC loves the water and I'm slowly teaching him how to swim.

Nepalis are a warm and industrious people.  My driver today asked for more work because he said, "Without work I am nothing." Jess attests that his staff has an equal work ethic.

The culture is very novel to us.  Nepal is not like a trip to Europe.  Things are very very different.  A simple trip to the store provides many opportunities to see new and interesting things.  There are many temples, and unique shops.  The populace also does much of its daily living out side on their steps or in the streets.  It is easy to watch and learn new things about the average Nepali life.

The U.S government works hard to make our lives comfortable here.  We get to experience the best of Nepal without many of the inconveniences.  Our water and fuel are delivered.  The generator provides constant electricity and there are gym facilities available.

Jess really enjoys his job.  He says every day presents new challenges and this is the opportunity he has been waiting for.  I am so proud of him.  Anyone I meet at the Embassy who knows Jess cannot stop praising his work.

The expat community is fun and laid back.  We get together to run, play softball or go to a whiskey tasting.  There is not much to do in Kathmandu valley so everyone makes the best of it and hosts gatherings.  Tomorrow night Jess and I are attending a private Jazz concert.  Its almost the perfect date night.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

The Help

I mentioned in my last post that I hired some help around the house.  Actually I hired a lot of help.  First I have a didi.  This is a Nepali word that means "big sister."  My didi is named Kalyani.  She is a grandmother, very quiet and gentle.  She cleans my house in a whirlwind - top to bottom.  She complains when I do my own dinner dishes and most importantly she watches JAC while I exercise for an hour.  Kalyani rocks my world.

Secondly I have a gardener/guard named Hari.  I'm truthfully not sure why we have a gardener.  Its complicated.  He worked  for a friend and the friend unexpectedly needed to move to Pakistan.  I can never say no, and truthfully our yard needs some serious manual labor.  Every exsisting piece of shrubbery is competing to take over the place.  He also looks after the dog if we go out of town.

Finally, I have a driver named Ramesh who also rocks.  He is very young and drives a motorcycle when he in not driving my car.  He is married and has a new baby without a name.  The baby was born two months ago and Ramesh is still thinking of his name.  He says all Nepalis are named the same names and is looking for a unique name.  I keep trying to convince Ramesh to name his baby after me but he says the baby should have a name starting with E or S.  For now, he just calls the baby - "baby."

I might also describe why we need a driver.  Traffic in Kathmandu is insane.  Sometimes I drive because I think it is fun - like riding a roller coaster or jumping out of an airplane.  Kathmandu has no traffic lights, no street signs and no center lane markers.  The city has almost 100,000 residents and I think they are all on the roads constantly.  This number does not also include the many cows who walk in the road.  Also, Ramesh is a wonderful tour guide.  Yesterday he explained to me that while he would not vote because the candidates were unsatisfactory he would go to the voting site and register his name as "No Vote."  He explained that if he failed to do this someone else would vote under his name.  This are insights you can only receive from a local.

I hope everyone is experiencing a corruption free Tues.

Monday, October 17, 2011

A Successful Day

This morning when we awoke we found JAC sleeping on the chair near our bed.  He must have sneaked in during the middle of the night and curled up on the chair.  I guess he just wanted to be near us.
I drove the car twice today and survived.   This is an accomplishment.  I've noticed even our driver prays before venturing out on the roads and he is Nepali.  In Nepal they have over 300 deities.  The driver told me that Nepalis rarely have the favor of their gods because the gods our frequently jealous of the other 300 deities.

I went to a foreign hospital for an ailment we won't discuss.  I found a great coffee shop that will put booze in your espresso and I caught a pigeon.  I found the pigeon roosting on my curtain rods and chased it with a towel.  I through a towel, hitting and stunning the bird.  While the bird recovered I wrapped it in the towel and took it outside.  This is all and ordinary day in Nepal.  The end.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Too Late

I've spent the evening in some kind of self induced misery - injecting myself with mushy love songs.   Now as I near my overdue bedtime I can't help but miss the good old fashioned mixed tape.

My younger brother is getting married next weekend and though we live worlds apart we've been swapping music all night over skype.  I cannot imagine how it is possible for the wedding to be in less than a week and it swallows my soul to miss it, inducing physical pain.  In one event the wedding brings us closer together and farther apart.  It creates more common ground and also creates a whole new family I am not wholly a piece of.

There are so many well crafted love songs.  I'm not a music person and I typically stumble across a great song months after others have learned of it.  Every great love song chokes me up and I immediately think the same thing "Would I play that at Jess' funeral." 

Jess is in perfect physical condition and his death is likely far off but I love him so much.  When I hear the strength of this emotion in the words of a song I can't help but wonder how I will survive some day without him.  There is only one Jesse and knows where to find my glasses when I loose them.  He knows why I want to punch the yoga teacher in the face.  He knows why I love driving in the insane Nepali traffic and without him the love songs mean nothing to me.

My mom once told me that she and my dad pray every night that they will die on the same day.  It is almost a line from a movie.  My brother and his new wife will find their own prayers.  Rather than wait for a funeral I'd rather play a few of these great songs for my Jesse.

The Luckiest - Ben Folds Five
Heavenly Day - Patti Griffin
La Valse de Ameli
Seems I'm Never Tired of Lovin You - Nina Simone
Ashokan Farewell
Home - Magnetic Zeros
Staraflu -Sigur Ros

What love song would go on your mixed tape tonight?

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Quick Update

I have some deeper things to write about but I'll just write a quick update about our mundane life.  Hopefully I'll finish off my serious post later today.

Last week we went on our first trek and it was fantastic.  I keep meaning to write more about it but it seems like a big task.  I will say the whole family wished we could trek a few more days because we loved it so much.

In even more exciting news - JAC is finally potty trained!  I'm scared to write it out of fear of jinxing everything.  JAC is out of diapers and hasn't had an accident in weeks.  He even did a great job on the trek.  I have to say there are some advantages of potty-training in Nepal.  For instance, no one looks the other way if your kid pees on a wall on a public street.

I hired a wonderful lady to help in the house.  She cleans in a whirl-wind and loves JAC.  I was even able to leave JAC home for a few hours yesterday while I worked out, met Jess for lunch and did some quick grocery shopping.

This morning I'm enjoying Starbuck's coffee.  Our friend is moving to Pakistan and cleared out her cabinets.  She also gave us lots of cleaning products which are nearly gold here.

Our vehicle is still out of order so JAC and I have been afoot.  We took Roxy on a long walk yesterday through a more quiet neighborhood.  JAC is getting great at throwing rocks at the numerous stray dogs who follow us and seem threatening.  This is a skill I never expected to teach my 2.5 year old.

JAC and I both have a cold.  It seems to be going around the embassy and we both caught it.  JAC really seems to be feeling unwell and if he gets worse I'll take him by the Med. Unit.

That's about all my news of my boring life.  What mundane boring things are happening in your life today?